HERMES TAG AND AUTHENTICATION FOR BAGS AND CLOTHING
HERMES TAG AND AUTHENTICATION FOR BAGS AND CLOTHING
Decoding HERMES tags, or blind stamps, involves
identifying the year of manufacture, the artisan who made the item, and special markings for exotic leather or custom orders. The format and location of these stamps have changed over time.
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How to find the stamp
The blind stamp is embossed discreetly on the inside of the item. Its exact location depends on the model and year of the bag.
Birkin and Kelly bags: On newer bags (post-2016), look on the interior left-side gusset, near the bottom. On older bags, it is often found on the back of the left sangle (closure strap).
Constance bag: Typically on the middle interior panel.
Vintage models: May be located under the tab or on the underside of a strap.
Decoding the date stamp
The date stamp is a single letter that indicates the year of production. You can identify the era by whether the letter is enclosed in a shape or not.
No shape
1945–1970: Letters run alphabetically from A to Z.
2015–Present: Letters appear with no shape. However, they are no longer in alphabetical order to deter counterfeiters. The format is typically a combination of a letter for the year and other codes for the artisan and workshop.
2020: Y
2021: Z
2022: U
2023: B
2024: W
2025: K
Shape-enclosed
1971–1996: A letter within a circle (e.g., A in a circle for 1971).
1997–2014: A letter within a square (e.g., A in a square for 1997).
Other important stamps
You may find additional, smaller stamps near the date stamp or next to the "HERMÈS PARIS MADE IN FRANCE" logo.
For exotic leathers:
Square (☐): Alligator Mississippiensis
Carat (^): Crocodile Porosus
Double Dots (..): Crocodile Niloticus
Dash (-): Varanus Niloticus Lizard
Equal Sign (=): Varanus Salvator Lizard
For special items:
Horseshoe: Indicates a bespoke, custom-made item for a VIP client.
Shooting Star: For an item handcrafted for an Hermès employee's personal use.
Letter S: Signifies an item purchased at an employee or company sale.
Limitations of using tags for authentication
While the blind stamp is a critical tool for collectors and authenticators, it is not a foolproof guarantee of an item's legitimacy.
Authentic items made before 1945 will not have a stamp.
The stamp can fade over time with use.
Experienced counterfeiters can and do replicate these markings. For definitive authentication, it is essential to have the item professionally inspected.